Ava Gruft S/S24 Runway Show - REVIEW

As the house lights dim at David Lam Hall, the host venue for Vancouver's bi-annual fashion week, an exhilarating ecstasy of passion and support looms over the audience. Vancouver, to outsiders, is often synonymous with insularity, an environment where finding your "people" is a full-time job. The fashion community in Vancouver is small, and as I observe a timelapse of the crowd filling the seats that line the runway, often bumping into multiple familiar faces before they get there, I'm made aware of an irrefutable fact, Ava Gruft has found her people.

A pulsating, house-infused beat hits the sound system as the introductory visual to Gruft's show begins. Shot by Halle Jean March, a captivating collection is immediately promised. Driven by blink-and-you'll-miss-it jump cuts, a shot-on-film aesthetic, and detail-work close ups, each frame reveals a new facet, drawing the audience deeper into Gruft's visionary realm. The roughly two-minute prologue comes to a close, and it's clear that a new standard of mastery for Vancouver Fashion Week is about to be set.

As the energy-charged show opener takes the X-shaped runway, a surge of attention snaps away from the screen, all eyes on her. If you weren't paying attention before, be damn sure you are now. The shows opening look; a metallic bra-top, accompanied by a maxiskirt of the same, trippy floral print. Styling of the show is impeccable, with this particular look showcasing a pair of black latex gloves, and an open-sided, belt-closure (of your dreams) black skirt. Jewelry from Alexis Purcell elevates Gruft's avant-garde and refreshing silhouettes throughout the show.

Standouts include a masterfully constructed, white, ruched gown (showcased on the runway underneath of a black lace top with waist cut-outs), a strikingly zigzag laced corset, and a grey tailored suit, finished with Gruft’s original mix-matched lace pattern. Influences from fashion icons such as Madonna and Grace Jones emote as each model takes the runway, dropping the jaws of audience members repeatedly. However, Gruft has managed to do something here that is not easily achievable, deliver a vision that feels completely unique to her.

These garments feel timeless, yet of-the-moment. Elevated, yet fashion-forward. The use of Gruft’s original patterns in tights, bags, and tops felt like that of a famed artist signing their work, and it is evident that Gruft has put in the time, effort, and research needed to take a designer to preeminent level. Across the span of ten looks, a world of detail and craftsmanship is delivered, taking the showcase to a new magnitude of brilliance. As applause and cheers of excitement reverberate through the auditorium, one thing becomes abundantly clear: Gruft’s showcase isn’t just a fashion show – it’s a testament to the alchemy of innovation. And in that moment, we all bear witness to the unfolding of fashion’s future.

Ava Gruft - @avagruft

Halle Jean March - @hallejeanmarch

Alexis Purcell - @lucky1ex

Oliver Barile - @panorrana

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Photos by Oliver Barile